Sunday, May 2, 2010

Swell's Back

The surf is up 
as my Uncle would say. 
Jump off The Pier.

Jump off the rocks at the end of The Point. 
Jump off the back of a mate's boat
But bring a strong board - that custom one, 
the one made with love 
and care by the local legend shaper, 
(ie not one mass produced 
in a third world factory).

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