Monday, August 31, 2009
Long time local Nana Brine surveying her local spot a few moons back. Have been surfing this spot out the front of my Mum's for decades and yesterday was one of the best. Day before was howling onshore chop. Yesterday it was glassy early and nobody out. Tried the Derek Hynd no fin, no leggie approach and all I can say is it's weird and difficult but fun. Wind swung around offshore, so I put a big pivot fin on the Seahorse and slid left and right. Wind stayed offshore all day.
Friday, August 28, 2009
Took this one more than 30 years ago when film was the only option. When oil was plentiful. When we drove big V8's with pintail single fins strapped to the roof with stretchy straps that sometimes broke and would whack you in the head. When nobody was riding wood.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
There are at least five sizable islands off the Brinecoast - all with different mixes of reef, rock platform and sand bottoms. Some call this one Kong's Island after local legend Gary Elkerton's film appearance. Others call it Troy's Island after the late surf pioneer Peter Troy (RIP), who held a 99 year lease on the place. I prefer the traditional murri name Mudjimba.
Back in the 70's, my brother and cousin and I paddled over from the nearest beach one day and surfed the rights, which sometimes run into the lefts, as this is kinda tear shaped. So we hit it on our pintail singlefins. Needless to say, we had it to ourselves.
Rested on the rocks after that, rolled a smoke (yeah we brought over supplies in a plastic bag) and paddled back over the shark infested channel.
A couple of years later, I was in Peter Troy's surfshop blabbing on about our adventure, pointing to the beautiful aerial shot of The Island that he had on wall. He was such a nice bloke, listening to me dribble on and on about our big paddle over and back, then he just nodded and said softly, "yeah, it's a great spot, I have the lease for the island". And this from a bloke who had already surfed a million countries before I was born.
RIP Peter Troy 1938 - 2008
Monday, August 24, 2009
Remember last summer?
High fire danger.
Surfing until dark without a wettie.
Oh, that was today - the highest winter temperature ever recorded in Brineyville.
Where's my order for Spring?
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Monday, August 17, 2009
When men on the chessboard
Get up and tell you where to go
And you've just had some kind of mushroom
And your mind is moving slow
Go ask Alice
I think she'll know
Some of the lyrics sung by Grace Slick of Jefferson Airplane in their performance of White Rabbit at Woodstock - 40 years ago this weekend. Backpacker bus at Byron Bay lighthouse - Autumn 2009.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
H and Bob McTavish the surf pioneer outside the defunct Noosa Longboards Shop in Brisneyland, with one of H's many VW's.
Bob and George Greenough worked for Hayden Kenny in the 60's on the Sunshine Coast - you gotta hear Bob's funny take on that era. Both he and Hayden are still making boards.
Friday, August 14, 2009
Caffeine, cameras and commuting today. And again I search for the perfect mocha - taste, temperature and volume. Yes that's a coffee mug stain on my trusty notebook. On the other page I wrote:
Going up country
Looking for Aunty's Aunty
Beyond the wires
If you find the perfect mocha on the sunshine coast, email me.
Self-portrait with wild flowers, beside Murphy's Farm.
I have owned more bicycles then cars, more surfboards than bicycles, more cameras than surfboards.
Going fast. Leaning over hard while turning - on a board, a bike or skate deck. Wind rushing past your face. And then changing direction back the other way. It all adds to the stoke factor.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
This week it's all about Lefts.
Deano, Andrew, Mark, Crofty and all you other goofy footers out there - drink it in.
This one down by the river mouth with a Japanese film in a Japanese camera and one of those cumbersome German plastic glove things.
Legend has it that this spot between The River and The Lake used to be a nudie beach. Now it's top dollar real estate.
Had fogotten how much fun going back-hand on my Dick Van Straalen quad was until brine brother Andrew and I scored a few crispie lefts on the weekend.
Monday, August 10, 2009
A Japanese camera meets an American film in Australia.
Sunny Coast dawn patrol. You walk through the trees. There's no wind. Birds are singing - even the magpies are friendly.
And a string of nice little banks as far as the eye can see.
This week's infatuation with Lefts continues. Another century, another continent, but equally chilly.
Video still from home made housing, shooting while surfing backhand on a board that's now retired.
The hardest part is the takeoff - as Mr Zimmerman would say "with one arm waving free, siluhetted by the sea"
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Friday, August 7, 2009
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Waiting for the sharks to stop feeding so we could go for a surf. South of Tibrogargan. South of the Tweed. South of Responsibility, Middle Age and Mortgages. Use a tripod if you are like me and have the shakiest hands in the business.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Ryan Heywood has included one of my analogues in his latest Body Surfing series - an online collection of shots from around this spinning blob of brineto maintain the stoke, but not sponsored or affiliated with any global corporate troika.