Monday, August 31, 2009
Long Time Local
Long time local Nana Brine surveying her local spot a few moons back. Have been surfing this spot out the front of my Mum's for decades and yesterday was one of the best. Day before was howling onshore chop. Yesterday it was glassy early and nobody out. Tried the Derek Hynd no fin, no leggie approach and all I can say is it's weird and difficult but fun. Wind swung around offshore, so I put a big pivot fin on the Seahorse and slid left and right. Wind stayed offshore all day.