Summer Koan #5 (in A minor)

the hum of air con

eye gouging shimmer at dawn

"Hello Summertime!"

Long Time Locals

The graffiti in Pa Bendall Park at Moffatt Beach said "Long Term Locals Only".  Maybe these two sisters qualify - Aunty Clair and Nana Brine, who have more than 70 years of coastal living under their belts. Next time you see them chattering away at the cafe at Moffatt Beach, stop to ask them about the time their father swam against the Duke when he came to visit Oz back in 1915. Or maybe what it was like camping at Kirra before the groyne and leg ropes. Or what Noosa was like when there were three camping areas in Hastings Street. Or raising six sons during the longboard to shortboard era.
Big Thanks to the staff at One La Balsa Cafe for making Nana Brine's 85th birthday yesterday memorable.

One for Stephen

One for Stephen (now get back to work, ha). A late arvo winter left at Nana Brine's, when glassed on fins were the only option and you processed your own black and whites. This is a bad scan off a nice neg, so apologies in advance to the Zone System purists out there. 6' 7" Les Purcell swallow tail thruster with double concave through the tail.

Long Time Local

Long time local Nana Brine surveying her local spot a few moons back. Have been surfing this spot out the front of my Mum's for decades and yesterday was one of the best. Day before was howling onshore chop. Yesterday it was glassy early and nobody out. Tried the Derek Hynd no fin, no leggie approach and all I can say is it's weird and difficult but fun. Wind swung around offshore, so I put a big pivot fin on the Seahorse and slid left and right. Wind stayed offshore all day.