Friday, July 31, 2009

Black and White and Blurred

Boiling Pot - Noosa  Autumn 1981

An enduring affair with the brine. Started last century. Camping at Kirra in the middle of summer before the groyne. Bodysurfing and then a pre-rashie coolite "foamie". 
Then a single fin. 

No leashes in those days.We drilled holes in our fins 
and attached a nylon rope and 
a cotton handkerchief tied at the ankle. 
Home made skateboards and bikes in between surfs. 

Stingers, Twin fins, Channel bottom thrusters. 

Camping with mates up near the wreck of the Cherry Venture north of Noosa. Hitchhiking south of Tibrogargan, over the border. Past Byron. Past Lennox. Live bands. 
University. Student demo's. Film. A homemade darkroom. 
California. Hawaii. New Zealand. Paying tax. Paying dues. 

Living at the beach. 
Cyclonic Noosa. Epic Cartwright. Glassy Wurtulla. 
Pictures in Tracks, Line Up, Unicorn, Inside Sport.
Medium format cameras. Art college at night. 
Commuting to work. Auto break downs. 

A new century. Grief and loss. 
Music. Holga & 120 infra red film. 
Driving the Mac.
Digital darkroom in the kitchen, on the back deck - 
wherever the laptop fires up. 
Sliding. Smiling.


If you come to Noosa, don't expect waves like this. 
Don't expect waves. 
Expect crowds. Expect traffic jams. 

If you find a wave, show respect.