Photo: Gered Mankowitz
Page 33 of this month's Rolling Stone magazine features an article about surfing "back in the day" as viewed by Andrew Crockett's tome Switchfoot II. Page 333 of that book features a bunch of my words and pictures including a sepia version of this shot of a mate at Granite Bay. I have left the complete scan in, so you can see it was the last exposure on a roll of Kodak 35mm transparency film. Lucky.
"Hughie don’t surf anymore.
Actually, he never surfed on a board
like that guy The Duke.
Instead, he preferred to immerse himself in the wave
and just relied on his hands and feet.
He was old skool before the term existed."
from Hughie Don't Surf 2009 by Neil Griffith