Random x Rant

My preoccupation with goofyfooters continues. All I can tell you about this shot is that it was taken by me with a Nikonos V 35mm film camera in the mid-1980's while treading water, wearing Churchill flippers (fins) at Tea Tree in Noosa Nationl Park around lunchtime. I only ever owned one lens for this camera - a 35mm (F3.5 I think). I would have liked the 28mm but couldn't afford it. Out of this roll of 36, there are probably 3 shots worth keeping. And who is it? Male. Goofyfooter. That's all I know. Some random surfer who was belting the lip.

One of the best live bands we ever saw. I have pictures somewhere in the Brinecave.
According to the good people at Google I have posted 181 pictures counting the two today. There are probably three in there that I have't taken - one my Dad took of Noosa Woods Camping area with his Petri, one of me that Gfg took with my camera and the kiwi skatebowl by Greg Chichester.
It would be foolish of me to say and for you to believe that what I present is "how it was". This is how it was for me, considering a huge range of variables: the numerous fruitless searches for waves that we all experience; the countless dud shots where surfer/wave/light/focus/exposure/framing wasn't good enough. And let's not forget the numerous images lost to fungus or the floods we get in Brinetopia. Or just lost in my many abodes. Or the fact that there are many tales and pictures that one just can't share with the digital super-vortex that is blog land.
So it seems really strange to me to read well known surfers and The Surf Media proclaiming their official History of How It Was. For me it's the random unknown surfers whose shared lore needs to be tapped into. I respect well promoted "legends" and love hearing their yarns, but I don't believe that that was all there was. But don't take my word for it.