Monochrome Monday (wet darkroom)

Serendipity

I suppose I have neglected to post much bloggage about the body surfing element of the brine experience in the last couple of years. Laziness? Lack of imagery? Maybe it's too special and too much fun to try and package up, break down, over-analyse? I have caught gazillions of waves with just my feet and hands over the years and I don't recall it being hassle (apart from my lung capacity) like board surfing can be on crowded days. And really, some days are just more body-friendly than board friendly.

So it was serendipity when three seemingly unconnected images crossed my path this week. Working on the mono one from WA last week (top), I received a cracker from a mate's session a few weeks back and then I came across the trailer for the body surfing movie Come Hell or High Water (Patagonia/Keith Malloy). Serendipity. Have a wet weekend.

Monochrome Monday (so many passwords)

Foam Symmetry Review

Harrison Roach (above) is a phenomenal surfet on long, short or wood. So I was happy to see him on the cover of Australia's latest surfing magazine. It's a bold move, putting your time and money into establishing another surfing magazine at anytime, let alone in these post-GFC, post-analogue, post-post-modern, post-Elvis times.
But that hasn't stopped Justin Bevan delivering Volume One Number One of the mag foam symmetry.

I can't show any photos from that issue as the editor's words are quite clear: "Copyright is reserved and the scanning of pages to be placed on websites or blogs is prohibited". (And as one who has had their own images infringed upon - karma will get you - I take these things seriously!) I can tell you the production values and Oz print job are sumptuous. I can tell you that after flicking through its 77 pages that I wanted to grab my old film cameras and go shootin and loggin at the same time. 

I can tell you that Issue One does not appear to have any shots of WCT type shortboarders shredding Pipeline/Off-da-wall/MystoIndo/Todos/Chile/Superbank/Jbay.

I can tell you that the mag is planned to be delivered quarterly and you can subscribe for four issues for $35Au. If I was a surfin sista, I might be disappointed. Then again maybe not as the shots of all the fellas are pretty impressive. BUT (and this is my only beef) where are the sista surfers, guys? There's a double page hang five of Kassia Meador and a half page shot of Sasha Leitmanis and that's it for the girl surfers.

But don't let this put you off. It's early days for these ultra-hip media-mogul sliders. Get yourself a copy and make up your own mind.

Seasons Greetings

i

Seasons greetings 

to all of my brine 

brothers and sistas.

.

It's been nice

hanging with you

in 2011.

Solstice

Those versed in the ancient arts of alchemy, astrology and astronomy will already know that today is our solstice - a time of potent portents when powerful forces are unleashed by the universe. Strangers perform random acts of kindness. Wallets get opened inexplicably. Plastic cards are exchanged for righteous fins, ballads, booze and wax.

And all around Christmas trees an office photocopiers, there is talk of spinning weather systems, spinning waves, spinning politicians and the existence of global warming, Jesus and Santa.

No matter what you believe, I hope you have a brilliant Christmas and a healthy and harmonious New Year.

Long & Short

Textish Tuesday (13-12-11)

Image above by Mark Lobo of VonVintage

Text #1 "Not big. 3 feet. just in the middle of nowhere. no one out"

Text #2 "Some nice small water at OV headland this morning. hope the stitches go well."

Text #3 "Hey neilo how's the face? Hope it's OK. Got some good waves yesterday at karamas."

Text #4 "If you pitch your tent they will come. Just got in from an excellent session on the point."

Tuesday (Texting not driving)

Text # 1
"Scarey surf by myself yesterday at W Head. Tiny wave on The Point"

Text # 2
"A good question. I don't think you would like the answer"

Text # 3
"Accident on O St gridlock. We are stuck near R. Start walking. We have not moved for 10 minutes"

Text # 4
"Gave K the mat. She says thanks and chucks ya a couple of shuckers!"

Them

It's not always about Us.

Sometimes it's about Them.

The rugged and buggered,

the disadvantaged and homeless,

the broken hearted and hungry

the poor and lonely.

Most of us can give something back - a wave or a smile to a stranger. Moy Sweetman went a few steps further and set up a charity  - Frangipanni Dreams - devoted to looking after the her fellow travellers in the Sunshine Coast community. 

This project has no source of funding from the government. All finances come from fundraising activities and the donations of food and goods by the local community. 

Tomorrow, the fundraising takes a different path (as surfers often do). This time it is for Moy, who needs a kidney transplant and her beautiful benefactor Tommy, who is donating one of his own kidney's to improve her quality of life. Details below.

Frangipani Dreams Giving Hope Incorporated is 

endorsed by the Australian federal government as a Deductible Gift Recipient under Subdivision 30-BA of the Income Tax Assessment Act, 1997. 

If you would like to contribute some time or money to the Sunshine Coast community, the contact details are below.

Frangipani Dreams Giving Hope Incorporated

P.O. Box 2080, 

Noosa Heads, Qld. 4567 

Telephone Number: 0432 404 722

Prone Science

I know a little about the science behind (air) mat surfing.

I know mostly nothing about the art of body (boogie) board riding.

It looks like a ton of fun at times.

Especially when you're gliding over a shallow coffee rock ledge.