Carefully crafted and edited surfing imagery sometimes belie the fact that just out of frame are four potential drop-ins and several boatloads of surfers all jockeying for the one prime take off spot. But once you get a wave to yourself like this, the stoke factor is ratcheted up several notches and makes the flights, the cost, the wobbly boat and suspect food all worthwhile.
In the liner notes of his 1977 anthology album Decade, Neil Young stated that he wrote "Down by the River" and "Cowgirl in the Sand" while delirious in bed in Topanga Canyon with a 103 °F(39 °C) fever. So I'm making an effort to land some type here despite feeling the same on a cold, wet spring morning. I can barely click the mouse. Don't know how he did it. Pic below is our surf guide from last week, Stumpy. He sure could sniff out the perfect take off spot and find the odd Maldivian barrel as well. I can't sniff anything at the moment. Lasted two days on The Commute before succumbing to some sort of energy sapping, nose/throat/head cold bug thing. So grateful it happened AFTER the trip and not during.