Double double (exposure in camera)

Town & Country

Normally, I try and live in the "here and now" and enjoy every moment, but this morning, I can't wait for today to be over. I'm off to the big city for a three hour series of interviews as part of hustling up a better job.

I spent a fair chunk of last night worrying about interviews, instead of dreaming of nice uncrowded walls.

I must have got some sleep in there somewhere, because in the middle of a cranking Kirra-like right the alarm went off. 

Wish me luck or say a prayer for me. Thanks.

textish tuesday

Text # 1
"Yeah you better be into r and b and hip hop by the time i'm back. and house!"

Text # 2
"Time for you to go home and be a productive member of society again"

Text # 3
"Expect to hear that you jogged home in preparation for Maldives"

Text # 4
"Worked from home yesterday and surfed K's . South swell and north winds, perfect arvo"

Text # 5
"Your handwriting analysis fails dismally. Did you have a nice time at X?"

Kool x Kool

electric

kool aid

acid test

Byron Bay Surf Festival

"The festival is non-competitive and 

will bring together people 

that want to celebrate surfing 

and the associated culture 

of art, music, film, literature, 

surfboard design and 

environmentally friendly and 

sustainable surf craft."

Byron Bay Surf Festival website

Keep On Truckin'

Sometimes it's hard to separate the degree of retro romanticism from the angle of hype. Surely there was a reason we shifted from big old logs to "short" 8 foot single fins to twin fins and from them to thrusters? Something about design? Something about a better board? Or was it hype to get us to part with our dollars?

The only thing I can definitively say about board design on this wet, pre-Spring morning is that one vehicle won't do it in all conditions. For me, anyway. I shoot with different cameras, film stocks and lenses to distill what I see in my mind's eye and I ride whatever I think will maximise my stoke on the day. Even thrusters. I haven't gone goat boat or SUP, but you never say "never". But hey, we're all different. Whatever you're driving through the bowl section, keep on trucking.

Searching

Monday - a good day for searching for a quiet wave to yourself.

Hayden Short

Tinbeerwah local Hayden Byrn 

doing the controlled stall and fall 

dawn patrol at a popular sandbank 

in between the river and the lake.

Congratulations on your New Dad status.

Confession

I have a confession to make. I promised various people that I'd send them photos I took of them - a couple on the beach at Nana Brine's, Rich Pavell at Currumbin Fish Fry, Rusty Miller at Noosa, Tim at his Big Shell and my mate Phil. 

And I haven't done it.

Yet. 

Sorry folks. You will get photos. 

Thanks for your patience.

"R" is for Reo

"R" is for reo

Radio Birdman

Ramblin Jack Elliott

Ramones

Rolling Stones

Reed, Lou

Ramones

RL Burnside

Razar

Riptides

Robert Johnson

Regurgitator

Ry Cooder

Roxy Music

Russell Morris

Ray Charles

Roseanne Cash

Roberta Flack

and

R&R

have a great weekend

(kudos to the legendary Mike Moir 

for the retro layout below)

Another Reo

Backhand to boot in the land of unexploded military shells.

Going Vertical

Am reading former Tracks editor Phil Jarratt's entertaining and informative story of the global surf industry Salts and Suits and chanced upon this anecdote from Bob McTavish from last year when he was making the movie Going Vertical:

"I'd had a dream not long after the stowaway voyage to Hawaii and in it I was riding a shorter wider surfboard and I was turning it straight up the face of the wave and then off the top and back down to the bottom."

" I'd broken the straight line and was going vertical on the face of the wave, but I knew that there was no surfboard known to man that would do that. That became my passion - to design a board that would go vertical - and in early 1967, I knew I was getting close."

Thanks Phil and Bob and Mr Brewer and Mr Greenough, Mr Simmons and all of the other pioneers whose thoughts and visions we reap today.