Friday, October 30, 2009

Harry's Diner (Shot)


Harrison Roach, Noosa legend of the longboard and cover star of the latest Auusie Longboard Mag on a saturday night at Fratellini's restaurant, Sunshine Beach.
Spring 2009

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Broke Down II


Have been crook as a chook for the last few days thanks to a virus that's doing the rounds in BrineVegas.
Hopefully, a bit more rest and I'll be back. Here's one for my pal "H" who is the Kombi King.

Monday, October 26, 2009

Rainbow Bridge


Dane Petersen, when he's not shooting beautiful surf magazine covers, manages elegant steerage of all manner of craft. And yes, this is not the original colour (unless you were at Rainbow Bridge with Hendrix).
Summer 2009

Variations on the Theme





Same spot. Same day.
You slide across a few and cut back with a mate.
Have a rest on the sand in the crisp autumn sun while a south-westerlie blows offshore.
Warm up over a hot coffee. Swap a few yarns.
Then head out again for a few more.
Autumn 2009

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Broke Down Brine



Big shout out to my goofy foot brother in brine Andrew D, who's high and dry at the moment due to a broken hand. Hooking into a nice sunny coast wall before the break. Get well soon, mate.
Winter 2009

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Hippies x Cockatoo


Black cockatoo speed blur at dusk at Hippies during a fruitless surf check. It's good to see these rare birds thriving again on the coast despite the drought.
Spring 2009

Friday, October 23, 2009

Pacific + Peaceful


After earthquakes and tsunamis, the Pacific Ocean has gotten all peaceful - so much so that there's barely a ripple. Waves in the fields are about all we got right now.
Winter 2009

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Before it went flat


Photog on the cliff? Check.
No drop ins? Check.
Get past the sucking rock? Check
Barrel? Check.
Winter 2009

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Wach 2


Christian Wach. Hang 10. No leggie. Point break. Rocks. Champion.
Autumn 2009

Best. Toilet. Ever.


There are many who would consider surfing a frivolous pursuit - sitting around, moving along a wave then paddling out again to sit around for a while. Over and over. And there would be many that would consider painting the inside of a toilet in low-brow outsider style even more frivolous.
I'm not one of them. Like the Comicstore Guy would say,
"Best.
Toilet.
Ever!"
Thanks to Sam from Frats for letting us shoot his designer (not) bathroom.
Thanks to Zach Kachad for the graf-art.
Spring 2009

Monday, October 19, 2009

Intermission


Team Brine have been on safari for the last four days, so apologies for the Intermission. Shot a lot of stuff - but alas no surfing. Details to follow.
Meantime here's another entry on the cornucopia of craft that are not 6'2" white thrusters - a kneeboarder and mate hooting from the shoulder. This one is so old that even I'm not sure where it is. I found it in one of the many yellow plastic Kodak slide film boxes that I have carted from my folks place to mate's places to my own places over the last 30 years. I'm guessing maybe Point Cartwright around '87.
Then again it could be Granite. Nah, no Cooloola coloured sands on the horizon. That settles it. This is definetly Cartwright. Just don't ask me the name of the rider.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Friday on My Mind


"Monday morning feels so bad,
Ev'rybody seems to nag me
Coming tuesday I feel better,
Even my old man looks good,
Wednesday just don't go,
Thursday goes too slow,
I've got Friday on my min
d"

Friday on My Mind by The Easybeats 1966

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Ou est la plage?


"Where is the beach?" and g'day are about my limits when it comes to speaking French. This board belongs to one of the French crew visiting this part of the globe. The owner's English is about as good as my French. Surfing and stoke, however are universal.
Summer 2009

Spring 2009

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

1984


No good having perfect waves if we're too busy killing each other or polluting the ocean.
Peace Rally shot on black and white film. This is about the only negative from that session that survived a flash flood under our house a while back. No that's not Photoshop. The actual silver nitrate in the film emulsion has lifted off the celluloid base - a happy accident in this case.
Autumn 1984

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Down by the River


When the bull sharks aren't making a run up the river, you can sometimes get a nice left here.
Winter 2009

Pivot x Dusk


Spring 2009

Monday, October 12, 2009

Boogie Barrel


Late yesterday afternoon out the front of Nana's,
 two lone boogie boarders
pick off a few glassy ones
in between rain squalls and thumping sets.
Spring 2009

Sunday, October 11, 2009

(Old Goats) Let it Loose


Three of these boards got waxed and wet today,
despite the grey and the long overdue rain.
Thanks for the surf guys.
Winter 2009

Saturday, October 10, 2009

The Art of Five


Another art form alltogether and equally difficult to master. First Point on a lazy autumn afternoon.

Heart & Soul


Continuing our surf art theme. We pour our heart and soul into life and we are enriched. Sometimes we have to pull back and drink it in.
Spring 2008 - Autumn 2009

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Bad Graff



On the very rare occasions that Noosa gets waves, there's a bunch of old gum trees
that you can use to mark your position in the crowded lineup
as the sweep endeavours to shove you away -
past First Point and down towards the Rivermouth.
The gum trees provide shade in our hot summers and a place to hang out
 for goannas, koalas and pink and grey galahs.
Back in the day you could actually park under them as in this Kodachrome from around 1987.
So why would somebody want to spray paint another living thing?????


Spring 2009

Good Graf





Brine Boulevard, a much better example of the art of graff using spray, stencils and wheatpaste.
Spring 2008

Wach x Noosa


Autumn 2009

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Golden Brown



"Golden brown, texture like sun
Lays me down with my mind she runs
Throughout the night
No need to fight
Never a frown with golden brown

Every time just like the last
On her ship tied to the mast
To distant lands
Takes both my hands
Never a frown with golden brown..." 
The Stranglers Golden Brown

 Punk band plus harpsichord plus lyrics about heroin = number 2 hit in the UK in 1981. We all know that drugs have ruined many surfers and wrecked their families, but is surfing itself addictive? 


Monday, October 5, 2009

Seahorse x Sawhorse


Hughie was a kid during the Great Depression and never forgot the value of thrift and recycling. He made these saw horses for me out of left over scrap timber last century -  before the container housing his soul gave way, before I started logging, before I met Mr Dain and Mr Pete from Seasurf.
The board is a 9' 4" Seahorse handcrafted by Dain down Byron Bay way. Usually ridden with the big pivot fin, but sometimes with no fin at all.
Like me, these old saw horses are a bit battered and grey but still functional.
Winter 2009

Marquee Moon



Full moon tonight. Full moon every 28 days, as we briners and brinettes observe the patterns of the tides and the clouds and the winds for portents of stoke.
There's a reason why a tripod is always in the back of my car and this is it - a great shot hampered by my unsteady hand. Still, I'd rather an unsharp shot then the crime of taking nothing and saying "that would make a great shot". This was hand held on the road between Lismore and Byron Bay last century.
Second one is full moon at a certain Bay on one of the islands off the Brineycoast - a magic spot to surf, providing you bring your own water and food and mates to stand on the cliffs to watch out for sharks.


Sunday, October 4, 2009

Coolum x Ilford


Continuing our monochrome theme this week, late arvo aussie seascape via an English film in a Japanese camera last century.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Remain in Light


Letting the days go by/let the water hold me down
Letting the days go by/water flowing underground
Into the blue again/in the silent water
Under the rocks and stones/there is water underground.

Talking Heads Once in a Lifetime

Summer 2009

Quicksand


I'm torn between the light and dark

Where others see their targets

Divine symmetry
David Bowie - Quicksand




Friday, October 2, 2009

Undecided


Most of us inhabit the alternative surfing universe
Un-sponsored, un-Famous, random amateurs
maintaining the stoke as long as we can.

Amidst the crazy daDa circus
on a crowded sunday session at Jonno's,
an occasional zen moment appears as
 light and water and timing and technology cooperate
making the session memorable.

Look and see.
The answers are small.
Summer 2009

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Strange Brew


If you look hard enough you'll notice: the track isn't paved; a single fin with rubber legrope (as in actual rope inside a rubber tubing) and there's only a portion of fence above Boiling Pot, which all adds up to one ancient image. Here's to the Noosa National Park staff for making this place accessible for all.
Winter 1977